A video of the finished product can be seen below. It’s quite a party-piece with friends, even those who are not gamers, and even the games who are not “simmers”/”racers”.

Read the full story below…

Requirements

1. It should be compatible with multiple game controllers (Logitech G25, Logitech G940, Steel Battalion, Mouse+keyboard, others)
2. It needs to be easy to disassemble, leaving just a seat for guests.
3. Mounted on wheels.
4. Relatively lightweight.
5. No motion controllers/actuators/vibrators fixed to seating/frame.
6. No speaker mounts.
7. No screen/TV mount.
8. Adjustable for users of different sizes.
9. Usable for both Left-hand-drive and Right-hand-drive (gear-shifter & handbrake must be movable).

Optionals

Sources of inspiration

• Chilicoke DIY cockpit
• Chilicoke G25 Steering Wheel adapter & Shifter paddles
• Ricmotech Simulation Racing Systems – DIY Sim Racing Cockpit
• Ricmotech Simulation Racing Systems – free shifter mod
• AlphA’s Steel Battalion Controller mod
• MasterTec’s G940 “Reversal bug” mod/fix  – alt. link

Bill Of Materials

All prices in Danish Kroner (DKK)

• Sparco Chrono Road seat 1700,-
• Mounting console for seat 100,-
• Sparco 6-point racing harness 575,-
• Plumbing parts for handbrake 250,-
• Handbrake cover 125,-
• Momo steering wheel 1225,-
• G25 steering wheel adapter & shifter paddles 475,-
• Assorted screws and bits and bobs 800,-
• Electronic connectors 275,-

Total: 5525,- dkr, approx $1000
Controllers NOT included!

The frame

And old shelving system was used as a frame – it’s made of steel tubing in 32mm (1-1/4″) diameter, 40cm wide, with a chrome finish – 3 sections were cut up and used. The longest section for the base is xxcm, and has 6 rubber wheels mounted, 4 of which has “brakes”. The front is the second-longest at xxcm and holds the pedals in place. The smallest is the ‘steering-column’, and is xxcm – it holds the main platform. The 2 smaller sections are secured together using a steel hose clamp, and to the bottom frame by squeezing the ends flat and bolting them to the sides (inside + outside) of the main frame. The seat-console sits on top of some reinforcement bars, and all the small tubing on the bottom section has been welded in place for stability.

Mounting arrangement / multiple devices

To accommodate multiple devices (not at the same time!) the mounting arrangement is a simple platform. An indent has been made for the Logitech G25, and the backside has been angled to fit the Steel Battalion shape. Holes are drilled where they are needed (for both G25 + handbrake, Steel Battalion and G940). The platform has steel supports underneath.

Assembly / disassembly

The platform for hold the controllers can be removed by first unlocking the 2 pins located underneath the plate, then lifting it up. The side-boards and handbrake attach to the ‘wings’ of the main platform. The modded Logitech G25 pedals are removed by either unlocking the 2 pins, or simply rotating it and lifting it out. The seat is secured with 4 bolts from below that are welded in place so you only have to remove the nuts on the topside.

G25 modifications

Reverse-mounted pedals mod
Instructions for reverse-mounting your pedals can be found @ Chilicoke’s site, but it’s simply a matter of taking the plastic box apart and mounting the 3 pedals upside down (in the correct order) with a M6 machine screw mounted through a plate (remember to flip the pedal plates). I  mounted my pedals to a piece of chipboard that fits inside the width of the frame. It suspends from the supports in the top, and locks into place with the supports below.

Heavier shift & reverse resistance mod
I followed Chilicoke’s guide for this mod, but had some problems finding a rubber o-ring with the correct size in my local hardware shop. Eventually I found a fit. The spacer for the heavier shift was done by sawing off a bit of a 6mm bolt.

Shift noise mod
Found this one over at Ricmotech – a simple mod to make the shifter sound better (less plastic/clonking noise). While the unit is disassembled, a piece of rubber insulation tape (for sealing doorframes etc.) is added to the inside of the shifter opening.

Handbrake mod
Inspired by Chilicoke (again!) I wanted a handbrake, see his site for wiring instructions etc.  I wanted a minimum of travel, and I wanted the handle to go straight up, at 90° from the plate it was resting on. The handbrake handle was made out of 10mm and 12mm copper tubing from the plumbing department. A T-section for the 12mm pipe was drilled up so the 10mm pipe could fit through and act as a bearing. A spring was scrounged from some brake parts. It was all mounted on a custom-shaped piece of chipboard, that is mirrored so it fits on both the right- and left-hand side of the wheel. A gearknob from an old Fiat 127 ‘Arbath’ was used for the handle – since no push-button is needed. A small microswitch is fitted underneath (secured in place with epoxy), and is activated by operating the lever backwards. The wires from the microswitch are mounted to clips to take any eventual strain. A male mono minijack connecter is fitted to the end, and color-coded appropriately.

Color-coding buttons
I can’t remember the Xbox X/Y/A/B button layout very good, so when I’m playing Test Drive Unlimited 2 or NFS: The Run, I can’t remember what’s what. A simple paintjob of the 4 topmost buttons on the gearshift unit does it.

G25 pedals for Microsoft Wireless Wheel
Guide: http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/2975695.aspx
To come later – maybe

Steel Battalion modifications

• Vibration/rumble mod
• Hardmount mod

Keyboard modifications

I wanted the option to secure the keyboard I’m using like everything else, so M6 nuts were added to the bottom of the keyboard to allow hardmounting – this means that the keyboard will sit at an angle when used on a regular table, which is fine by me! The keyboard shown is a Microsoft Sidewinder X6.

Logitech G940 modifications

Hardmount specifications
I hardmounted my G940 to the support plate on my rig, here are the distance between the mounting holes for all 3 devices:

Throttle assembly: 6,75″x7,75″

Joystick assembly: 6,75″x7,75″

Pedal assembly: 11″x6,25″

Throttle cable mod/fix
I will determine if this is needed at a later point.

Reversal bug mod/fix
I will determine if this is needed at a later point.

Cause: Avast! Antivirus is causing this.

Solution: Disable Avast! Antivirus when playing Battlefield 3.

Confirmed with Avast! Program Version 6.0.1289, definitions version 111028-0

Not only was the Logitech the cheapest, it was also the only one that included Rudder pedals, as well as Force Feedback! Many people have complaints about the Logitech Gaming software – but having tried this previously with my G25 wheel, I wasn’t concerned. The Logitech G940 has one major drawback though; it shows up as 3 seperate input devices (Joystick, Throttle, Pedals) – and this can render it completely useless for some games.

The Saitek X65-F has ‘Force Sensing’ , which looks really awesome, but is apparently only really good for jet-fighter sims.
With both the Saitek X65-F and Thrustmaster HOTAS WARTHOG you will need separate pedals, further adding to the already high costs. (Saitek Pro Flight Combat Rudder Pedals $200, for the Thustmaster, CH Pro Pedals $123)

Logitech G940 Hardware

The box is huge, and the entire package weigh in at ??? kgs. The build quality is good for an ‘entry-level’ product, even though it’s the only one made in plastic of the 3 brands. All the 3 G940 components can be hard-mounted with countersunk screws. They work okay without but I am looking forward to mounting them for stability. Note that these mounting points are holes all the way through the units, so you don’t need to fiddle around underneath with machine-screws. An easy mounting option would be simple wood screws directly from the top.

The flight stick is a bit too long for my hands, so the big red FIRE button is actually a bit of a hassle to reach, but I think that will improve with a better seating arrangement. The main trigger is metal and double-action (press or press hard), besides this you will find the afore-mentioned red FIRE button, 1 mini-hat (8 positions), 1 analogue mini-hat (with click function), and an additional 5 buttons, labeled S1-5. On the base you will find 2 trim wheels and 1 trim knob/dial. All the buttons have a nice feedback/travel, so you certain when you activate them. The topmost mini-hat functions as an analogue mini-joystick , which makes it very useful, since it can double as a mouse or just for camera movement.  The click function on the analogue mini-hat is a bit too stiff for my taste – I often decide not to use it, even though it would make sense for something like ‘reset camera’ when you’re done looking around.

The throttle (well split-throttle actually) is home to 8 back-lit buttons on the base (P1-8), as well as 4 buttons on the rightmost handle (T1-4), 2 mini-hats, 2 trim-wheels as well as the selector for modes 1-2-3. The throttles lock together with a push-button on the bottom of the handles, and there is a tactile ‘detent’ or ‘resistance increase’ as you approach full throttle, perfect for afterburner. The back-lit buttons P1-8 features removable transparent covers, under which you can place small pieces of paper with function descriptions written on them. Included in the G940 packaging is a pre-printed sheet of paper for just this purpose. It looks nice and especially makes sense if you are switching games often and can’t remember all the buttons. You can toggle between 3 button-presets with the mode-selecter, though I have yet to try this. On the bottom of the unit you can adjust the resistance/weight offered by the throttles.

The rudder pedals has a knob in the center for tuning the resistance/weight (though I can’t really feel the difference?), and 2 flaps underneath with small spikes for staying put on a carpet. The pedals travel back and forth, as well as being able to push the front of the pedals down for wheel brakes (I assume). The pedals themselves are stainless steel and very nicely done – but the edge toward the player is a bit rough when playing barefoot. They are very stable on a hardwood floor with just the rubber feet!

The throttle + rudder pedals + a power connector (same PSU as the Logitech G25) all connect to the joystick base, and from here it’s USB to the PC.

Logitech Gaming Software

I downloaded the latest version of ‘Logitech Gaming Software’ for Windows 7 64-bit, as of today that’s version 5.09.131, and I haven’t had any issues yet. Included in the software is a ‘FW’ folder, containing a firmware update for the G940. I did not notice any difference, but I ran it all the same, very straight-forward procedure, click-n-go.

Game compatability

Based on my limited experience with the Logitech G940, here’s a brief compatability list, and equally important, a list of games that will NOT work.

Compatible games

• Apache Air Assault (Very good, but no force feedback support due to game code)
• Tom Clancy’s H.A.W.X 2  (Good, but no force feedback support due to game code)

UNcompatible games:

• Tom Clancy’s H.A.W.X (does not support 3 different controllers – you should be able to use joystick alone though)
• Enemy Engaged, Apache vs. Havoc (does not support 3 different controllers)